Article of jewelry.



PATENTED OUT. 17, 1905.

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APPLICATION FILED 0CT.11.1904.

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rrrrrrn s'r'irs JEAN BAPTISTE J OSEPH UHAUMET, ()F PARIS, FRANCE.

ARTICLE OF JEWELRY.

Specification of Letters Patent.

Patented Oct. 17, 1905.

Application filed October 11. 1904 Serial No. 228,075.

To all whom it may concern.-

Be it known that I, JEAN BAPTISTE J0- snPn CHAUMET, jeweler, a citizenof the Republic of France, residing at Paris, in the Republic of France,(whose full postal ad dress is 62 line de Richelieu, Paris, aforesaid,)have invented a certain new and useful Improved Article of Jewelry, ofwhich the following is a specification.

This invention consists in an arrangement for setting gems with a Viewto the production of all kinds of jewelry, such as rings, bracelets,brooches, coronets, diadems, and the like. For this setting a certainnumber of suitably prepared or cut gems are taken and firmly fixed bymeans of a metal framework. The preparation of the gems and thearrangement of this framework are such that the jewelry when finishedhas the appearance of being formed almost entirely of gems or stones,the metallic frame being incased in the latter.

In order that the invention may be understood, reference will now bemade to the ac companying drawings, in which Figure l is a front view ofthis method of setting; Fig. 2, a transverse section on the line :0 a;of Fig. 1 Fig. 3, a view in perspective of one of the stones or gemsbefore being set Fig. 4, a View also in perspective of the metallicframework which retains this gem when its setting or mounting iscompleted; Fig. 5, a front view, on an enlarged scale, of a ringproduced by the means hereinbefore specified; Fig. 6, a correspondinghorizontal projection; Fig. 7, a vertical section on the line a I) c ofFig. 6; Fig. 8, a horizontal section on. the line at c of Fig. 7. Figs.9 and 10 show methods of fastening the gems utilizing the process ofmanufacture shown in detail in the foregoing figures.

Each gem or stone A. intended to be set by this improved process has itsinternal face 1 and its external face 2 ground and polished in the usualmanner. Any desired decoration may be imparted by cutting or in anyother way. Grooves 3, 4, 5, and 6 are formed in its four sides, in whichgrooves the metallie framework is intended to fit in the mannerhereinafter explained. This extremely light metal frainework is formedof two wires 7 and 8 of suitable section and of suitably-selected metalintended to lodge entirely in the upper grooves 3 and lower grooves 4 ofthe gems, together with small bars 9, also variable in section and sizeforming to some extent cross-pieces between the two wires 7 and 8, towhich they are soldered, each half lodging, respectively, in the lateralgrooves 5 and 6 of the two adjacent gems.

In order to set the gems, the wires 7 and 8 are engaged in the uppergroove 3 and lower groove 4 of a gem A, and then on each side of thislatter in its lateral grooves 5 and.6 small bars 9 are arranged, theextremities of which are then soldered on the said wires 7 and 8. Itmust be noted that if these latter can be entirely located in thegrooves 3 and 4 such is not the case with the small cross-bars 9, whichmust project to half their thickness on the side of the gem, so as to beable to penetrate into the corresponding groove in the adjacent gem witha view to assist in fixing it. The first gem. being set, a second one isengaged between the wires 7 and 8 in the manner hereinbefore stated. Thelateral groove 5 of the gem covers the projecting half of the lastcross-bar 9 already fixed, and then a fresh. bar 9 is placed in. itsgroove 6 on the opposite side. After having soldered this bar 9 on thewires 7 and 8 the second gem is set. A third gem is then put in positionin an identical manner, then a fourth, &c.

Figs. 3 and 4 show clearly in what manner each gem or stone is retainedin place when the setting is completed. In order to show the frameworkin Fig. 4, it is of course supposed that the gem which was thereinclosed or set has been broken away.

When several gems are uxtaposed and set in the manner described, a jewelor part of a jewel is obtained showing, at least in front, no metalpart, the framework almost disappearing in the various recesses providedfor receiving it. In order to complete the effect, a suitable cover maybe provided for the wires 7 and 8 which may approach the edge of thegrooves 3 and 4.

A row of gems set in the manner hereinbefore described is capable ofbein used for making all kinds of jewelry, braceIets, rings, coronets,brooches, and the like.

Figs. 5 and 8 show, as an example, the application of this improvedmethod of setting to a ring. In this case the gems A are arrangedbetween the wires 7 and 8 in the form of circles. The cross-bars 9 arealways placed in the manner hereinbefore indicated.

In order to put the last gem in place, either the wires 7 and 8 may becut and then soldered when they are located in the grooves 3 and 4 orthey may be deformed in order to facilitate the admission of the gem, asmay be desired.

If the setting arrangement be applied to a collar or bracelet, theobject may be made with a hinge arranged at each of the crossbars 9, soas to permit the opening of the jewel.

It is evident that by a judicious choice of the stones or gems adaptedto be utilized for making this or that jewel, diamonds, rubies,emeralds, topazes, sapphires, or the like, by cutting or decoratingtheir visible faces, such gems being further adapted to be employedalone or in combination one with another, and by this means jewelry ofvery varied and original appearance is obtained.

In the foregoing specification it is assumed that these jewels arealways formed of a single row of juxtaposed gems; but it is evident thatwhile still employing the same method jewels may be produced havingseveral rows of gems, and Figs. 9 and 10 show diagrammatically inexternal view and sec tion two and three rows of gems combined and setin the manner hereinbefore described. In order to make these multiplebands, the operation is performed in successive rows, but always in themanner explained. It

must be pointed out that the intermediate wires 10 and 11 must be ofsuitable section to penetrate partly into the grooves of one row of gemsand partly into the grooves of the other row.

Of course the forms and proportions indicated in the drawings either ofthe gems or the metallic frame are not limited to those stated. They maybe varied at will according to circumstances and requirements and alsoaccording to the nature of the various materials utilized. The methodhereinbefore described although particularly applicable to themanufacture of bands of juxtaposed stones might also be utilized forsetting isolated gems.

Having now particularly described the nature of my said invention and inwhat manner the same is to be performed, I declare that what I claimis 1. The herein-described article of jewelry, comprising a number ofjuxtaposed stones with grooves in their edges and a wire frame, thewires being embedded and hidden in the grooves.

2. The herein-described article of jewelry, comprising a number ofrectangular juxtaposed stones with grooves in the edges of each,parallel wires passing through certain of such grooves, andconnecting-wires passing through grooves at right angles thereto, thewires being hidden by said grooves to produce surfaces similar on thefront and back of the article.

In testimony whereof I have signed my name to this specification in thepresence of two subscribing witnesses.

JEAN BAP'llS'lll JOSEPH CHAUMET.

Vitnesses ANTOUIN MOUTEILHET, ARCHIBALD R. BAKER.

